Newest Bookmarks

Whenever I get a new box of Red Rose tea I gleefully grab the separator cards from the box and I make bookmarks out of them.

Usually I draw a design on the card that relates to the book I’m currently reading.

I haven’t done this in quite some time but today I made two new ones. These are not related to books I’m reading but from other interests.

Here they are:

bookmark-iron-giant bookmark-jani-tor

 

Re-Introducing JANI-TOR

bjanitor

In the late 1990s I created a robot in Lightwave, and called him JANI-TOR. The idea was that he was a menial sanitation robot sweeping the floor of a lab he’s not necessarily supposed to be in. His broom bumps a ball (a familiar one to Canadian children in the 1970s, and is NOT, I repeat, NOT the PEPSI logo!) and follows the ball to where it rolls to a halt under a huge Van de Graaf generator, where he reaches down to pick it up as the sparks get increasingly closer to him, and then he stands up, the generator waning, and examines the ball, tosses it in the air where a huge spark disintegrates it, turning it into dust. Undaunted by any of this, JANI-TOR continues about his business.

I put the video together but never did the sound.

This week I decided I wanted to 3D print him. Actually, I decided this many years ago when 3D printing became possible.

This week I remodeled him (can’t find the original Lightwave files), updated a few things, like his hands, and beefed up his feet, and printed him in his broom-carrying, ball-surveying pose.

Here is a tray filled with all of the parts: The dark teal of the original was not available, so I used a lighter version, and I still think he turned out well:

jani-tor-parts-01

And here he is, printed out. As you can see by the parts, it’s all tab and slot connections, and so he’s not articulated. He’s a statue. But a nice one.

jani-tor-01 jani-tor-02

jani-tor-03

I posed his eyes looking a bit too high. I can fix that by printing a new head for a different version.

Note the broom. I could have 3D printed that too, but guess what? Sometimes 3D printing is not the only, and not necessarily ideal, method to make something. This time I used two paint brushes (one for the wooden base, and one for the bristles) and a piece of wooden dowel. The hand has a cylindrical space in it so the broom can slide into place easily.

Here are the movies, one is a walk test, and the other the full video. These are tiny because it was the late 1990s and this size took long enough to render. It was also a test only.

Here is a series of single frames from the animation. Each one mimics the storyboard frame I created for them very closely. I stuck to my storyboard fairly strictly.

shota shotb shotc shote shotf shotg shoti1 shoti2 shoti3 shoth1 shoth2 shotj shotk shotl1 shotl2 shotl3 shotm1 shotm2shotm3 shotn1  shotn2 shoto1 shoto2 shoto3

 

Rick & Morty – Flying Saucer Car – Talk about Iterative Design

IMG_4093

I am involved in many projects, both at home and at work. Each one has shown me how important iterative development is. I have found that nothing is ever “done” but it does get ever-closer-to-done.

At the request of a friend I took on the fun task of modeling and 3D printing Rick’s flying saucer car from Rick & Morty, the Adult Swim cartoon series.  This request was probably prompted because I had been creating things using vending machine bubble capsules, and the ship has a perfect bubble-capsule canopy. (This is a good series, but it is not for kids.)

I found first that no matter how much research I do on the web, I see no two versions of the ship are alike, which is expected because they are hand drawn by various artists.

I did a quick version that worked fairly well:

rm-test-print-01

But of course this was a test print only. I had full plans to do a detailed interior.

The problem: I made the aperture for the capsule tight. Very tight. Applying the capsule should be done only once, and it could be tight. To get it to fit, I had to warp the edge inward, snap most of it in, then let it relax outward to fit the rest of the circular indentation.

So that worked. Then I added the detailed cockpit interior. When I was done, I had 50 individual pieces to make the car with the detail I wanted. (Some of this was to make printing easier or cleaner, such as making the interior tank out of 3 pieces instead of 1.)

rm-full1-04 rm-full1-03 rm-full1-02 rm-full1-01

Uh-oh. I soon found that there was no room to bend the capsule inward to fit it properly without dislodging or breaking items inside the cockpit.

I had to think for a bit. This version is solid. Can’t fix it. So perhaps I can try to get it to fit after all, but it will be hard.

But then I came up with the perfect idea:

I would break the interior out as a circular floor, and cut it out of the body, and then install it from below after the bubble capsule is in place. The bottom would glue to the body, and then the oval under-piece will cover the hole. The result will be visually identical, but far easier to assemble.

UPDATE: Nov 23, 2015 – The Finished Ship

Here is a photo of the finished ship. I also created and added waterslide decals of the “bumper stickers” on the side of the ship.

rm-ship-finished-decals-01

This version has the separate cockpit which allows for easier assembly.

Sooooo… interesting story:

This whole project was suggested to me by my friend Bil Mauritzen. When I sent him a copy, he showed photos of it to the co-creator of “Rick & Morty”, Justin Roiland who reportedly said it was the best bleeping thing he’d seen.

I sent a second one to Bil, who will be giving it to Justin.

So that happened.

 

3D PRINTED ZOETROPE – My Grand Project

What Is A 3D Printed Zoetrope?

Here’s one I found on YouTube that I like:

Ever since I saw my first 3D printed Zoetrope (a spinning disk with 3D printed figures on it, spun to a synchronized light which simulates a smooth animation) I set out plans to make one myself

The basis is easy – 3D print a group of figures, each frozen in a single frame of a looping animation, stuck to a spinning wheel and a strobe light set to synchronize to the rotation until you see a perfect animation.

However, there are complications, the largest being how to synchronize the light so it always aligns to the figures on the disk at an exact angle. You can spin it at a variable rate with a potentiometer on the motor and then use a variable strobe and hand-sync the two until they work, or fall out of sync due to variations in current, etc… but what I really wanted is an absolute sync, and I think I figured out a good method:

 

The Arduino

ArduinoMicroFront_450px

I intend to use an Arduino Micro to synchronize the light to the spinning disk. This should be easy, but some experimentation has to happen first.

First, I purchased several infra-red light emitter/detector pairs. These are LEDs, one of which emits an infra-red light, and the other detects that light. Using the pair, I should be able to trigger a circuit whenever the light is detected (or not detected) by the detector.

There are numerous examples of how to do this on the web, but it’s fairly easy. Simply hook up the emitter to an Arduino output (with an appropriate resistor to ramp down the voltage so as not to blow the LED) and the detector to an Arduino input.

Next, I will write a simple piece of Arduino code that registers the input strength (the detector is analog, so it can detect any amount of light the emitter emits.) I will use that with a variable threshold to trigger another output that I have hooked up to a very bright LED light (and perhaps even to the switch of a third-party LED flashlight).

This way I can light the LED whenever the detector sees the emitted Infrared light.

I can trigger the light to turn on and stay on only for a very short time.

 

Synchronization

To synchronize, I intend to print a small hole (or tab) near each 3D printed figure “frame” and then, no matter how fast I spin the disk, it will itself trigger the Emitter/Detector to flash the LED flashlight. So I should be able to spin an unmotored disk and have it sync, and as it naturally slows down, the sync will remain solid.

But of course I will use a motor to keep it going, and hopefully a motor which speed I can adjust, so I can speed up and slow down the animation.

 

 

UFO 04 – Jetson Cruiser

The Jetson Cruiser

This is my latest UFO print:

ufo-04-cruiser-08

Admittedly, I grabbed the idea from this wonderful model I saw on the web:

IMG_3852

I did make my own alterations and adjustments, though.

What I was aiming for was something out of the Jetsons, a flying saucer that invoked a 1950s car feel with fins and chrome lights. I have no chrome, so I was stuck with a gray filament that is called silver but is not.

Here are all of the parts that make up the Jetson Cruiser:

ufo-04-cruiser-parts-01

Assembly

Gluing the bumper to the bottom half:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-bumper-01

Here the cockpit assembly (console, pilot seat and comfy couch for five passengers) is attached to the bottom of the saucer:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-cockpit-01

Then the semi-spherical bubble capsule cap is put in place. The fit is so perfect I don’t need to glue it:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-cockpit-02

Then I blue the six clear translucent lights to the light covers:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-headlights-01

And I attach those to the body:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-headlights-02

The tail-light rims go on next:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-tail-lights-01

Followed by the customary navigational lights, green on the left, red on the right:   ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-running-lights-01

And then the actual tail lights:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-tail-lights-02

I glue tires into the three wheel housings. Note: These wheels are printed in a flexible black, so they feel like rubber and have some bounce. In a future version I may add axles and allow them to roll:
ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-wheels-01

Inserting the vertical thruster. The thruster is printed in a translucent glow-in-the-dark icy blue. So when it’s glued to the underneath, it shows the orange (and gray from the cockpit) through. To avoid this, I attached a circle of tin foil to reflect light back out:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-tin-foil-01

Then I glue the thruster in place underneath, and attach the wheels:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-bottom-01

Now the two halves get joined, for a completed model:ufo-04-cruiser-assembly-main-body-01

The Showroom

ufo-04-cruiser-01 ufo-04-cruiser-03 ufo-04-cruiser-04 ufo-04-cruiser-06 ufo-04-cruiser-07 ufo-04-cruiser-02

ufo-04-cruiser-09

 

Cute Prototype

When I prototype, I use colors I normally have a lot of, but don’t use a lot of, like purple, pink, neon yellow, etc. In the first print of this model, I used purple and pink with green and white.

It was intended only for fit and to determine what issues the model would have.

But my daughter loved the color scheme and basically demanded it, so it’s now hers. Here it is.

12516134_10153175455856105_787960785_n

New Rocket – Apollo 42

apollo-42-complete-engines-extended-03A couple of years ago I bought a Pegasus Hobbies model kit called “Apollo 27” because it looked awesome. I haven’t built it yet, but I will get to it.  It has these four rocket engines offset from the body with a solid structure holding them in place. I looked at it and thought “Hey, what if they swung in and out?”

apollo-27-box

Apollo 42 is born. (42 – Reference to the Ultimate Answer.)

I changed the design naturally, but I liked the original enough to keep the basic shape.

Here are the parts: One engine has been assembled to show how the parts fit together.

IMG_3896

A bit about the design:

Like many of my rockets, it prints in multiple colors. I design it so that body stripes are individual cylindrical pieces, and I use holes and pegs to align them for gluing (the black mass in the picture is a group of pegs.)

Each hinge arm has a hole in either end. In the body of the rocket and in each engine, there are four hemispherical bumps that the hinge arms get pushed onto. Once in place, this acts as a very solid hinge. In a future design I may change how this works, but for this one it works well. A careful eye can detect that at each end of the hinge arms there is a funneled channel carved in to make sliding these onto the bumps a bit easier (though it’s no easy task.) Once snapped on, however, they work very well.

The number 42 is inlaid using four individually printed numbers, booleaned into the body and angled correctly. I do this by making the letters, the making a cutting tool object that is just a bit larger all around, so the number can slip into the cavity without too much difficulty.

I designed the rocket with two hinged arms for each rocket engine. Each engine retracts to a recessed section of the main body, and extends outward to a maximum distance.

As it is now, each engine can be pulled in and out individually, and because each uses two hinged arms, the angle stays correct as you extend them and retract them.

apollo-42-complete-engines-retracted-03 apollo-42-complete-engines-retracted-04 apollo-42-complete-engines-retracted-01 apollo-42-complete-one-engine-extended-01 apollo-42-complete-two-engines-extended-01 apollo-42-complete-three-engines-extended-01 apollo-42-complete-engines-extended-01 apollo-42-complete-engines-extended-02

 

I will note that during assembly I came up with a great way of making it so that when you pull out one engine, the other three will also pull out, and in. I will be working on that in the future, perhaps Version 2.0 of Apollo 42.

Vending Machine Bubble UFO – Flying Saucer – 04

I wanted to make another UFO, this time using a 2.25″ spherical vending machine bubble capsule, one of the newer versions, not the acorn-shaped ones.

So I perused the internet for ideas and found one that I really really liked. I admit I took a lot of the design directly, and then added some stuff of my own, including re-using legs I created for Thunderbird 1’s display stand, with some alteration.

Here’s the final result:

ufo-04-finished-01

Here are the constituent parts:

ufo-04-parts

The bubble is clearly not 3D printed – it’s the clear half of a vending machine spherical capsule.

Assembly:

Two halves of the saucer, along with the purple interior console and green seat:ufo-04-assembly-01

Front grill and green headlights:ufo-04-assembly-02

Green vertical thruster and legs:ufo-04-assembly-04

Five green tail lights:ufo-04-assembly-03

Beauty shots:
ufo-04-finished-05 ufo-04-finished-02 ufo-04-finished-03 ufo-04-finished-04

Inspiration:

I am often inspired by models, things I see in every day life, and in searching the web. I found this one and liked it so much I only made small modifications. Apologies to the original artist. I loved your work so much I had to use it.

IMG_3853

 

Borosilicate Glass Storage Rack – A Modular Design

The Afinia H479 and H480 (I have one of each) comes with perf-boards to print on. These work fairly well for most purposes, but the boards warp with the stresses of cooling plastic layers, and it’s difficult to print something with a wide bottom that is truly flat, but this is often necessary.

Luckily Afinia also sells sheets of Borosilicate Glass that clamp down to the heated print bed. Alone they do nothing, but when the glass is coated with a thin film of ABS slurry (a mixture of 10% bits of ABS plastic and 90% acetone by weight) something actually magic happens: The print sticks to the unwarpable glass like crazy, and then when it cools, it pops up as if it was almost never attached. I mean I have no idea how this works, but man, it works!

I bought three sheets some time ago and that’s perfect to keep a print flow going. But one of my cats knocked one over and shattered it, and I dropped one, leaving me with one. So I bought three more.

Now I find that they are cluttering up my already cluttered work surface:

glass-plate-mess-01

(And this is me organized!)

So I thought I needed some place to store the sheets of glass waiting to be used. I came up with a modular rack system.

Since my Afinia can only print a 5x5x5 volume, and the rack base pieces had to be over 7″ in length, I cut the parts up in two halves with jigsaw tab and slot design so they can snap together. This works very well, snapping very tightly with perfect matching tolerances!

Here you see the two halves apart,glass-plate-base-parts-01

then snapped together:glass-plate-base-parts-02

Screw holes on the sides allow me to screw this into a plywood wall that is just above my print table.

Then I created these slotted holders that can slide into the base pieces:glass-plate-base-parts-03

(I have since redesigned those a bit to allow easier insertion of the glass by flaring the apertures a bit, see the final pic.)

So I printed four sets, snapping them together. Since I designed the slot system to not come apart easily, I only need to screw in the top and bottom rack bases, though I could, if I wanted, screw them all in place.

This is the improved slot design. Slightly less wide, but flared so I can put the sheets in easier, yet they still hold well.glass-plate-base-installed-01

And here are the borosilicate glass sheets in place, perfect, out of the way, and easy to grab when I need one.

glass-plate-base-installed-02

 

Bubble-Capsule Flying Saucer UFO-02

Introducing UFO-02. I have not given these names, just numbers in the order of creation. UFO-01 can be seen here, and UFO-03 can be seen here.

UFO-02

ufo-02-01

UFO-02 is a more hard SF flying saucer, with buttresses supporting the bubble-capsule dome.

ufo-02-02

It also has red surface detail printed in a beautiful cranberry-red translucent PLA material.

ufo-02-03

It has plated heat sinks on bottom, with a sewing pin which looks like some kind of 1950s energy weapon on the bottom.  The landing gear is also reminiscent of the era.

ufo-02-04